Prairie Restoration
Rebekah Cammack • July 27, 2022
In June’s blog, we discussed alternatives to lawn; one of the suggestions we made was a natural meadow. The idea of a natural meadow with native plants sounds very romantic, but the execution of getting there can be a bit nebulous and overwhelming. When I found out about a guided tour of one of the largest native grassland restorations in Oregon, I jumped at the opportunity to go see for myself what a 16-year-established oak savannah and prairie looks like, and to hear about the journey it took to get there. So, on a sunny summer day, Forrest, Dale and I set out to Jefferson, Oregon to see what this huge project was all about and hopefully gain some insight into how it could be applied to residential sites.
I grew up in a home where if you were on time, you were five minutes late. This has left me with a strict obsession to be on time in everything I do; this comes as both a blessing and curse. As we pulled up to the farm site, it quickly became apparent we were one of the first to arrive and were roped into helping direct all the arriving vehicles to find parking. When there is a restoration event in rural Oregon, a wide array of people (and vehicles) show up. We had Priuses full of Portlanders in their Chacos with binoculars hanging around their necks, government employees from a variety of departments in their trucks and hefty work boots, and everything in between. It was fun to see the diverse community a project like this draws in.
The site: The company Heritage Seedlings has spent the last 16 years working on the Jefferson Farm Restoration just outside of Jefferson, Oregon. They hired botanist Lynda Boyer to be the overseer of the project. This is probably the largest private restoration project in the state; the project is working to enhance and restore 135 acres of habitat that was formerly grass farm and grazing pastures. Prior to 1850, much of the Willamette valley was open prairie and now there is only 1% left. I will link here a wonderful presentation that Lynda has posted on the heritage seedlings website that is full of good information in her own words.
The components of a native meadow:
There are two main things that make up a prairie: grass and forbes. Grasses used in restoration projects include Prairie Junegrass, Romer’s fescue, California Oatgrass and Pine Bluegrass. Forbes are essentially the perennials and annuals that come up every year. These include plants like Checker Mallow, Erigeron, Iris tenax, Camas, etc.
HERE is an article Lynda wrote in 2018 about pollinators; the whole thing is worth a read, but if you’re in a hurry she starts a list of desirable native forbes and grasses on page 49.
Getting started:
Lynda gave some very practical advice for how to get started on a site.
- You don’t have to start from scratch; let things come up and do an inventory of what is already thriving on your property—you might be surprised by what you find.
- If there are native plants present, collect seeds and plant them.
- Focus on getting rid of the invasive species that are present: rhizomatous grasses, blackberry, thistles, clover, etc. There are often certain herbicides that can be used to spot spray these plants.
- Keep in mind that as you take things out you are opening space for other options—have a plan for those possibilities! Otherwise, you may have just given breathing room for another invasive specie to take over.
- That being said, plant more plants! This can be done via seed, plants in plugs, pots or a combination. Lynda recommends planting grasses and forbes at the same time.
- Do you hate those gopher holes that pop up in your yard? Well now you can look at them as freshly disturbed soil that is there for the planting! Whenever the soil is disturbed in your site area, throw some seed in.
- Prior to 1850, a lot of the native prairie in the Willamette valley was maintained and cultivated by indigenous peoples through controlled burning. This helps control the invasives and encourages a lot of the forbes that propagate after fire. Controlled burning in this environment, for the average homeowner, is not a possibility. However, an annual mowing/string trimming will mimic the effects of the fire. It is best to mow as late in the fall as possible and leave the meadow at a 6” height. Depending on the site, you could even stretch it to mowing every other year in a patchwork pattern, helping the insect population who is at home there to thrive.
Potentilla with Spider
A word about pollinators:
Joining our tour was an entemologist who explained the very complicated system surrounding pollinating insects and plants. What bug pollinates which plant is completely variable based on location and year. Jefferson Farm provides an important space where he and his colleagues can observe and study the pollination habits of insects and our native plants over a long span of time.
This is a list entemologists have made of the pollinators at Jefferson farms and the plants they visit. You can see how complex it is.
More and more I have clients who want to incorporate a piece of restoration onto their property. Here are some things I think clients need to know:
- You have to be comfortable with weeds; you will probably never 100% get rid of invasives, you simply have to control them as best as you can and pick your battles. For example, focus on killing the blackberries first over the oxeye daisies. Here is a poster of some of the worst invasives we have here in Oregon
- You will have some failures; you just have to keep trying things to see what takes, you cannot give up easily.
- It takes consistency to get it looking good.
- Start with a small area and increase it as you go so it doesn’t feel overwhelming all at once.
- There are some really smart people (like Lynda Boyer) doing this on a huge scale. If you’re passionate about this, see what they’re doing, if there are ways you can get involved and what information you can glean from what they have accomplished.
- Spring season is the season that shines. In our climate here in the valley, wild meadows will look their best and be at their peak in the spring when the majority of the forbes are blooming—a lot of our native perennials go dormant in the summer heat.
This restoration work feels very different than what we typically do in residential design. It isn’t uniform, it can get messy and it honestly takes someone who is invested in upkeeping it over the years to make it successful. However, the end product is something beautiful and good for our little piece of the world.
The Rainy Season Has Arrived There’s no doubt about it — the rainy season has begun! November is historically the wettest month of the year in Oregon, and your landscape will thank you for a little extra preparation. Here are some tips to keep your garden healthy, resilient, and habitat-friendly this season: General Maintenance Clean roof and gutters to prevent overflow and protect drainage systems from clogging. Compost or mulch fallen leaves instead of disposing of them — they’re valuable organic matter. Look for bare soil and cover exposed areas with organic mulch such as medium dark hemlock, arborist chips, or fallen leaves. Weed first, then mulch to prevent erosion and feed soil lif e. Mulch insulates plant roots, suppresses weeds, and supports beneficial organisms like earthworms and fungi. Some tender plants (Fuchsias, Dahlias, Cannas) benefit from an extra “blanket” of mulch to protect from frost. Remember: mulch in summer also conserves moisture and keeps roots cool. Check irrigation systems : Turn off the automatic controller. Turn off the water at the street or backflow prevention device. Drain the system if possible to prevent damage from freezing. Prune tall roses back by about one-third to prevent winter wind damage. Avoid hard pruning until they’re fully dormant later in the winter. Lawn Care (or Lawn Alternatives!) If moss is creeping in, it’s a sign of shade, poor drainage, or compacted soil. Before reaching for moss killer, consider reshaping or reducing your lawn. Converting shaded areas to native groundcovers or meadow plantings benefits pollinators and reduces mowing. If you maintain lawn areas, aerate, lime (50–80 lb per 1,000 sq ft), and fertilize with a slow-release winter blend to support healthy growth. Remove fallen leaves promptly. Wet leaves can smother grass, but when raked into planting beds, they become excellent free mulch that improves soil structure and provides habitat for overwintering insects. Store garden tools and equipment clean and dry: sharpen blades, oil metal surfaces, and disconnect hoses to prevent freeze damage. Planting & Seasonal Color Now is the best time to plant or transplant trees and shrubs — roots establish best in cool, moist soil. (Unless we are talking cacti and succulents, let's plant those in Spring!) Still time for spring bulbs! Get tulips, daffodils, crocus, and alliums in the ground before it freezes. Force Paperwhite Narcissus indoors for holiday blooms — they flower in about five weeks. Prune shrubs that bloomed in late summer or fall. Avoid pruning spring bloomers now, as you’d remove next year’s buds. Soil & Drainage Watch for water pooling during heavy rains. If you see soggy areas, consider adding rain gardens, French drains, or dry wells to improve infiltration. Native sedges, rushes, and moisture-loving ferns thrive in these areas and support native pollinators. Compost and leaf cover: Spread composted manure or leaf mulch over dormant garden beds to feed soil life and prevent compaction. Shrubs, Trees & Perennials Rhododendrons and Azaleas: If leaves are yellowing, fertilize lightly with an acid-loving plant food while soil is moist. Never lime these plants. If they’re already green, simply mulch with leaves — they prefer organic matter over extra fertilizer. Tender perennials like Dahlias or Cannas can be dug, stored, or mulched deeply for winter protection. Vegetable & Edible Gardens Garlic can still be planted for harvest next summer. Fruit trees: rake and remove diseased leaves to prevent fungal spread — replace with clean leaves or bark mulch. Rhubarb and asparagus beds: top with compost or composted manure. Cover vegetable beds with a 3–4-inch layer of leaves to prevent compaction and enrich soil for spring planting. Store potatoes around 40°F in a dark, cool space like a garage. Habitat & Wildlife Leave seed heads on native plants, ornamental grasses, echinacea, and rudbeckia to feed birds and shelter beneficial insects. Add bird habitat: Provide water, shelter, and native food sources through shrubs like snowberry, elderberry, and red-twig dogwood. Avoid using slug bait with metaldehyde — instead, hand-pick slugs or use iron phosphate-based alternatives safe for pets and wildlife. Consider planting Saffron Crocus (Crocus sativus) — a late-blooming crocus that supports pollinators and yields edible spice threads next fall. Houseplants: reduce fertilizing during low-light months; let them rest until spring.
On Saturday, September 27th, we held our fall plant sale at Thornhurst Garden—and what a day it was! The garden itself provided the perfect backdrop, with the changing leaves and late blooms showing off the season’s beauty. It was such a joy to see so many friendly faces—neighbors, friends, and new visitors alike—coming together to share their love of plants. Events like these remind us how much community is at the heart of gardening. The sale helped us find new homes for much of our overstock, and many folks walked away with treasures for their own gardens. Moist fall soil means these plants will settle in happily, making this truly the best season to get them in the ground. We also held a raffle, and we’re excited to announce that Sarah Reid was our winner! Congratulations, Sarah! Thank you to everyone who came out to support us, explore the gardens, and bring home plants. We’re already looking forward to the next time we can gather and celebrate together. (Here’s a look at some of the wonderful people who joined us that day!)
October might just be the best month of the year. Leaves turn gold and crimson, the first steady rains return to refresh thirsty plants, and the garden hums with renewed activity—birds darting through the branches and insects busy among the late blooms and fallen leaves. Soon, the season’s magic spills beyond the garden as little goblins and witches knock on our doors, candy bags in hand. For gardeners, fall is more than just a feast for the senses. Cooler days and moist soil create the perfect conditions for transplanting trees, shrubs, and perennials—plants settle in more easily now than in the heat of summer. (Unless we're talking Agaves, transplant those after the Spring rains) The softened ground also makes digging and dividing far less of a chore. Even challenging tasks like ivy removal become easier when the soil gives way beneath the roots. Autumn truly is a season of opportunity: a time to plant, to tidy (or not!), and to prepare the garden for the year ahead while savoring every bit of its fleeting beauty. The last week of October, but sometimes the first week in November, is the last time that we mow weekly. Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time for yourself. Occasionally, we will have a warm Winter, and a touch-up may be needed. Eco-lawns- Depending on the seed mix, you can leave these as is, allowing them to form more of a meadow look. This can help create more habitat for wildlife and insects. October is the first month when we have a higher probability of transplanting from moist, soft soil into a damp, soft new hole. All plants of course prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and the (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time typically extends from the rainy season until approximately the middle of March. Now is the best time to plant in Western Oregon! If you want Spring blooms, make a trip now to your local nursery and purchase Spring bulbs to plant in the ground! October/November are the traditional months for planting Spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs now, such as Saffron Crocuses and Colchicums. The rain will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so getting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart off a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The Fall leaves will start to drop all over your yard. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will damage your lawn if left on, sometimes only in a day or two, but they can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. Lots of insects use this leaf litter as their habitat. This is a great way to invite more birds and wildlife into your garden as they forage through the leaves! I love watching them! This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frost or freezes. Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them 2” thick over any bare areas in your beds for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help choke out weed seeds from sprouting. If you are seriously into gardening, here are some more tips. Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer Pick any green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest Sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great for birds and human snacking. Sow native hardy annuals- you can sow these on any bare soil, or you can use gravel mulch and direct sow on that! Some great hardy annuals are California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Red Maids (Calandrinia ciliata), Farewell-to-spring (Clarkia amoena) Gilia capitata, to name a few. Feel free to reach out to us if you have any questions about hardy annuals! A hardy annual is an annual plant you can sow in the Fall, and it will germinate, survive the Winter Months, and grow enough roots to sustain itself. Most of our natives will not require additional water the following year, and if they are happy, they will seed around and come up where they are thriving.
We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00! Bring your friends! Please RSVP for the event at the link below: https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact
Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year. Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
